fredag 8. mars 2019

Travel to Mati and Baganga Davao Oriental

DAVAO ORIENTAL

July 2016: I took a van from Ecoland Bus Terminal in Davao City, going to Baganga. There are also large buses going, but not always according to your wishes and needs. There are people just outside the bus terminal who will approach you and offer a Van ride to your destination. Our van was a nice Toyota minibus, with aircon. It drives fast and furios, and can be packed with people and their belongings. 
Large buses are also usually filled to the brim, and can be just as packed as those smaller vans.
As I already shared, I was amazed with the relative good condition of the roads, at least on the National Highways. There are some mountain crossings, and very nice views along the road. We passed by the capital of Davao Oriental, 

Mati

Mati is not a very nice town, but also not too bad. It has a nice harbour promenade area, called Baywalk, Nice and nice...? depending on your standars. But at least young lovers like to sit there in the dark evenings.
From the baywalk area downtown in Mati
Bajaj auto rickshaws are increasingly popular in the Philippines. Ths one took us to Menzi Beach Park & Camp resort

A 15 minutes ride outside the center, there is a nice white sand beach with some resorts.
Playing beach volleyball at Dahican Shore
Dahican shore, just outside of Mati city

Mati and escpecially the beach left a good impression on me, and I would recommend the place for those who are curious about natural wonders in the Philippines. 

By the way: This particular beach may be prone to some serious damage if a major Tsunami hits this Eastern shore towards the great Pacific Ocean...

Otherwise, not so much to wonder about. Better stay back home if you are not one of those guys who love to experience the world?!

Baganga town

A 5-6 hours drive with van from Davao, I arrived finally in Baganga town. I found a very simple shack on a run down beach resort. The beach itself was fine, the resort was the last resort so to speak. Terrible bed, common toilet/shower that was constantly occupied by a singing-in-the shower woman from the neighbour hut.
The couple who originally owned, developped and ran this Resort, died, and the guys now running the place are not very competent obviously. But yes!: it was a very nice place, even if my body screems for something more luxurious! But hey: It's more fun in the Philippines!
Inside the hut on the beach. Not much to write home about...
The view from the hut is much better than what is was inside.
Baganga has many natural wonders: Nice beaches, rivers, forests and even a hotspring:
This is a really HOT hot-spring, Balete Hotspring, 20 minutes north of Baganga.

lørdag 2. mars 2019

DAVAO CITY and Samal Island.

Davao city

 https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/2/24/Ph_locator_davao_del_sur_davao.png

First some facts copied from Wikipedia:

"Davao City, officially the City of Davao, is a highly urbanized city in the island of Mindanao, Philippines. The city has a total land area of 2,443.61 km2 (943.48 sq mi), making it the largest city in the Philippines in terms of land area. It is the most populous city in the country outside Metro Manila, and the most populous in Mindanao. As of the 2015 census, the city has a population of 1,632,991.
It is geographically situated in the province of Davao del Sur and grouped under the province by the Philippine Statistics Authority, but the city is governed and administered independently from it.
Davao City is the center of Metro Davao, the third-most populous metropolitan area in the Philippines (as of the 2015 census with a population of 2.5 million, after Metro Manila's 12.8 million and Metro Cebu's 2.8 million). The city serves as the main trade, commerce, and industry hub of Mindanao, and the regional center of Davao Region. Davao is home to Mount Apo, the highest mountain in the Philippines. The city is also nicknamed the "Durian Capital of the Philippines".
According to Police Raw Data from 2015, the city has the hightest murder rate and the second highest rape rate in the Country.

TOURISM 

The Philippine eagle, the country's national bird and considered the largest eagle in the world, is endemic to Davao. 
The orchid waling-waling and fruits such as durians, marang, rambutans, pomeloes and mangosteens are popular and generally cheaper in the city. Tourist destinations in the city include the Philippine Eagle Foundation and Nature Center, Mount Apo, Gap Farming Resort, the Davao Crocodile Park, Malagos Garden Resort, Eden Nature Park, and People's Park in the city center which is popular for its sculptures of indigenous people and dancing fountain. Samal Island, a part of Metro Davao, is an island city situated immediately off the city's coast in the Davao Gulf, popularly known for its scenic beaches.
Two major annual festivals are held in the city: the Araw ng Dabaw (Day of Davao) on March 16 (The city's incorporation day) and the Kadayawan Festival in August. Also celebrated in the entire month of December, Pasko Fiesta sa Davao is an integration of festive and competitive Christmas activities showcasing colorful lightings and array of decorations in barangays, public parks, roads and buildings, and a series of competitive performances. Another annual festival, the Torotot Festival, is held annually every New Year's Eve. First organized in the last day of 2013 during the 2014 New Year's Eve, it was organized as a recompense for the city firecracker-pyrotechnics ban; it includes a number of people simultaneously blowing party horns, locally known as torotots. It recorded a number of 7,568 people participating in the first event, aiming to break the world record set by Japan for the most people simultaneously blowing party horns.
During 2011, there were 1,075,000 recorded tourist arrivals in the city, totaled from 81,081 foreign travelers, 983,315 local citizens, and 10,604 balikbayans/overseas Filipino workers. Estimated tourist receipts were recorded at 12.81 billion pesos while estimated economic benefits were 28.19 billion pesos."
 

GETTING THERE


By Air

 The most convenient way for tourist from abroad to get to Davao city, is to fly from Singapore or Kuala Lumpur (Malaysia) directly to  Francisco Bangoy International Airport. It is a modern and welcoming airport situated within the city limits.

If you are already in the Philippines, the airport has an extensive network of flights from major cities within Phils.
Local airlines with direct flights from Manila are Cebu Pacific, Philippine Airlines, and PAL Express. Flights are available from other key cities such as Butuan, Clark, Cebu, Cagayan de Oro, Dipolog, Iloilo, Kalibo, Puerto Princesa, and Zamboanga.

From the airport, there are taxis that can take passengers into the city. Hotel pick-up can also be arranged. Another alternative is to hire a car if passengers want to drive themselves.

By Land

Buses are the cheapest mode of transportation. Air-conditioned and non air-conditioned public buses travel to and from Davao City. Buses are available from Manila (via Ro-Ro; roll-on, roll-off) and key points in Mindanao, including Butuan, Cagayan de Oro, Cotabato, Digos, General Santos, Kidapawan, Koronadal, Surigao and Tagum.

By Sea

There are ferries that travel from Manila to Davao. They have routes going to and from the various islands of the country.

Davao City has become famous in recent years due to Mr. Rodrigo Duterte, now the President of the Philippines. He was a Mayor in that city for around 22 years, and cleaned up a lot of the criminal activities there, often using brutal methods.
The result is that Davao is considered one of the safest big cities in the world, at least that is what they like to brag about.
I am sure that all Norwegian cities are safer than Davao, and we are not controlled by heavily armed police and military personell. But yes, one should feel safe in Davao city, even as a blond tourist.

But is it fun there? I am not sure. I used to go out in the evenings, but what I found was not very cool nor interesting. Not really. There are some overpriced shabby night-clubs for men only, and some disco that one time has people, and then the next time there is nobody there but the DJ's.
Smoking in public areas even outdoors is practically banned in Davao city, also in bars and restaurants indoors.
There is also a ban of sales of alchohol during night time, commencing from 1am from convenience stores like 7-eleven etc.

Currently there is a Kerfew nationwide, commencing at 10 p.m. in rural areas - not in the big cities, so roaming around outside after the Kerfew restrictions, may bring you into trouble.
I wish it was the same for those crazy roosters, who love to torment your sleep. But roosters are, in the Philippines, above the Law, obviously...
Davao City is in my oponion - as a tourist - boring and so ugly in most areas. Old, worn-down buildings abound, slums are common, and the seaside area is not good for swimming due to high amounts of dangerous bacterias in the water that transports a lot of shit via the river down into that part of the ocean.
Downtown in Davao, San Pedro area
Davao City Hall
Hotels in most parts of the Philippines are overprized, and there will always be some problems: Mice, cockroaches, ants, not working showers, old beds and interior, bad wifi, bad TV selection and basically not what you would get in for example Thailand. 
IF you plan to stay in Davao City, I will recommend you to stay in a high quality Hotel, paying that extra dime to have a good experience. 
Too many so called hotels are just too bad to carry that name "hotel". Make reservation for ONE night only online, and if you do not like your hotel, it is easy to find another one that hopefully is better. 
I would recommend single male travellers travelling on a budget to make a booking in the San Pedro area. 
MY HOTEL is a good choice, but often it is fully booked.

If you want to see some sexy girls and enjoy that kind of entertainment, there are many options in that area. BUT: it is not a cheap experience!
San Pedro area is in my opinion an ugly worn down place with very little attraction.

The People's Park 

is in a walking distance from San Pedro, and can be recommended just for hanging out. But even that place is NOTHING compared to what you can find in other tourist destinations all over the world.








There are more entertainment areas as well for night life activities, so if you are into that kind of stuff, just google for it.
BUT:
Davao is NOT an ideal destination for typical party and playboy activities. Then you are much better off in Angeles City, Pampanga, or in Makati City, Burgos street. Cebu City Mango Square is also a good option for party lions.  

DAVAO BAY WALK and the copy of Michelangelo's statue DAVID

I must say that I was very disappointed with this Bay Walk. It is broken down, in disrepair, and nothing to brag about.



Copy of Michalangelo's statue DAVID

TIMES BEACH

 Not so far from SM Ecoland there is an area called Times Beach. It is not much to brag about though. There are some small resorts there, some restaurants and karaoke-bars.  The water is too polluted, so it is not allowed to swim in the sea in that place.
 
However there is a very nice resort there with an aquapark that is really nice.

 
Beach restaurant at Times Beach



Nice resort with aquapark at Times Beach




Times Beach outside Shark's Inn where I rented a cheap and simple room for some days.



Of course there are many tourist attractions in Davao City that I have not been to, like the Crocodile Park etc.
The problem is that all those places has an entrance fee, and are not a part of the natural habitat of the city, so to speak.

Samal Island

Get out from Davao city asap is my recommendation. Samal island is the closest point of interest. It is an island just a 15 minutes ferry boat trip from Davao city's port, the Santa Ana Warf. 
Samal has much natural beauty, and many resorts along the coast line. And that is the problem with most coastal areas where many people and tourists come to: Most of the beaches are fenced off, and you will have to pay money to have access to the sea and the beach.
Camp Holiday is a resort that is in the area where the ferry boat arrives from Davao city.
Samal island is, in my opionion, a nice place to go if you have plenty of money, and can afford those luxurious resorts. But if you are travelling on a low budget, like me, there is not much fun in that place sorry to say. 
You could get up in the mountains and enjoy the cool springs, that is affordable! and of course there are some affordable beach resorts with huts that you can sleep in over the night for a fee of around 500 pesos. Open huts that is, not much privacy!

Ferryboat between Davao and Samal island

Tourist map over Samal Island


Renting a motorbike is practical, but costly on Samal Island

COOL SPRINGS

 








AN AFFORDABLE SMALL BEACH RESORT 15 MINUTES WITH TRICYCLE FROM THE FERRY BOAT TERMINAL




Recently several foreigners were abducted from a resort in Samal Island by Abu Sayaf, and most of them have since been beheaded. The Norwegian victim was released recently, alive and back in Norway. Kjartan Sekkingstad survived the nightmare. 
But I would say that Samal is probably a very safe place to stay, not many Abu Sayyaf guys live there, I suppose. They are more active in the South-Western part of Mindanao and the Sulu islands close to Indonesia and Malaysia.

fredag 1. mars 2019

Travelling in Davao Occidental: Santa Maria, Malita, Don Marcelino, Lamidan

Davao Occidental  
 This is the newest Province in the Philippines, created in October 2013. It used to belong to Davao del sur, but became a separate province to enhance development in the region.
Its capital is the municipality of Malita. To the east lies the Davao Gulf. It also shares a water border with the Indonesian province of North Sulawesi to the south.
 https://www.mapsofworld.com/philippines/maps/davao-occidental-map.jpg

TOURISM 

There are very few international tourists in this province. The infrastructure is partially very bad in some places. However there are some resorts, especially close to Santa Maria, not far from Digos city.
Also, there are some simple resorts North of Malita, and one simple resort - Captain's Lake - in Don Marcelino.

Rooms

There are a couple of places that offer a certain quality of roof over the head in Malita town as well as in the resorts.

In Don Marcelino there is a new place, a so called Hometel in the very center. This place have around 6 rooms, with nice interior and aircondition.

GETTING THERE


This province can be reached by taxi, bus or van from Davao City or General Santos.

-Vans
These are minibuses going often to destinations far away, and are in direct competition with the typical larger buses. The advantage is that they arrive faster than the ordinary bus, IF they arrive that is. Driving like the devil may take u and others to hell.
Inquire where the vans go from. I have taken van from behind SM Ecoland. The vans will go via Digos, and then if you have the right van, it can take you all the way to Malita.
I know there are even some vans that go all the way down to Jose Abad Santos town, but I have never gone there. The road is to terrible that it is really an adventure to get to that place, called JAS. It involved crossing some river, driving on the beach etc.

-Buses
Get to Ecoland Bus Terminal. There are the standard Super Deluxe  buses with no aircon, loose seats, crazy driver who can take you all the way from Davao city to Don Marcelino. But my recommendation is to get on a nice modern aircon bus to Digos, and from there you can change either to an ordinary bus (there are the bad ones and the better ones) down to Malita
Aircon Bus, good quality
Super Deluxe Bus, shitty quality, carrying even live chicken inside amongst the passengers.

The vans and most buses will have their final destination in Malita. There are a few buses that also go all the way to Don Marcelino, but not so many during a day. You may consider to take a tricycle or motorbike from Malita.

-Tricycles
This is my own tricycle, made in Malita
 That is basically a small size motorcycle (100cc-175cc) with mounted side car and some kind of roof - like a large umbrella. In Malita the typical tricycle has a solution as on the picture
.It is very hard for a big person to ride those tricycles, but often they are the only transport available there and then. They may carry more than 10 persons at one time in rush hours.


-Motorbike
Most of the motorbikes are for personal use, but in the rural areas they work as a useful taxi, called habal-habal, bringing people almost anywhere they need to go, often in areas with very bad road standard.
Motorbike rental is almost non-existing here. I found a company in Cebu city, but they demanded a deposit that is larger than the value of the bike, so, if you are not too loaded with money, that is not an option.
Probably, the situation has improved in typical Tourist hot spots, but I do not know where to find them.
However, in the provinces you can probably negociate with one of the habal-habal drivers to rent the bike for some hours, but it will not be very cheap.
That might be the best solution, but beware of bad roads, a lot of gravel and mud, and goats, dogs etc. running out in front of you. Accidents are very common, and so many people have large scars on their body due to being passengers on motorbikes, or drivers, and having basically  no protective gear.

BUY your own motorcycle is what might be the best solution to get around, if you plan on staying for a longer period in the Philippines.
I have bought 3 brand new motorcycles during my stays here in the Phils:

September 2008: a Honda TMX 155, price 72 000 pesos cash price.

This is my TMX, I modified it with some CB parts

September 2017: a Yamaha YTX125, cash price 47 000 pesos. 
A great motorcycle with long seat, and a nice luggage rack.

January 2020: a Honda XR150, cash price 86 000 pesos.
A solid on/off road motorcycle for tall people. 13 horsepowers, great torque, 5 speed gearbox.

I bought these bikes on credit, so the price will of course be much higher this way, but I consider it like rent to own. 

Of course, you could buy a used motorbike for around 25 000 - 30 000 pesos, but if you are a foreigner, they might inflate the price considerably. If you buy second hand, you should go for a Honda, as the spare parts are readily available, especially the TMX versions. There is a lot of China copies of those Hondas, but I can not recommend them as there is usually not so big difference in pricing, neither new nor in the second hand market.

Be aware that you will only be able to get a basic insurance, a third part liability or whatever it is called. It is basically useless, so drive carefully! Remember that your international Driver's Licence is only valid for 3 months. I have a Filipino Licence since 2008, renewed of course. But if I did not have it already, the guys here in Digos would not let me have one, unless I have a valid visa for more than one year on the day of application. They showed me the Law. However, I know that the practice varies from location to location.
Wanna go GREEN? Welcome to the Philippines!

Riding the bus from Davao to Malita, before we were injured by the steam from the radiator..
The road between Digos and Malita offers some very nice sceneries with several mountain crossings.

MALITA town



This is the provincial capital of Davao Occidental. A small coastal town with around 15000 inhabitants within the town. There is one shopping center, called the Central Ware House. There are also 2 or 3 nonstop open convenience stores.
There are some half decent beaches in the area, nothing to write home about, but still good for bathing. There are some resorts and rooms for rent in the area, but most of the place is typical provincial and quite basic style.

FLIPPER Guest House:

This guest house is situated in the town center, just by the beach road. The rooms are quite simple and old, with simple matresses. They do have an old aircon, so you may survive. The position is ideal for tourists of course, as it is located both in the town and just along the beach area




   Boy Blue's Hillside resort is situated to the East for Malita town, up the hillsides:



























.



DON MARCELINO


Driving south 35 km from Malita along a beautiful coastal road, you get to Don Marcelino.

Here I am at the Bus Terminal/Market in Lawa, Don Marcelino.

Lawa, Don Marcelino. The end of the good road, so the buses and vans stop here.

Captain's Lake Resort in Don Marcelino 



Captain's Lake is found just outside the township of Lawa. They have some huts there, and if you bring food you can cook. It is also possible to rent a hut for the night. The place is situated just by the beach, so if you want to take a dip in the waves, you can do that as well.

Beyond Don Mar 

From Lawa/Don Marcelino, the road continues a very long distance, even beyond Jose Abad Santos. However, I have only driven until what they call the Winston hill, which is seen in the following 3 photos:



 UPDATE: We drove down to Lamidan back in 2019 during the summer time.

WINSTON AREA:





Lamidan









                                                Calian Beach:



Calian White sand beach, not far from Lapuan.


Lapuan village and beach

Lapuan village: the barrangay Hall (town hall)

10 kms from Lawa, there is Lapuan Beach. It is not easy to access this beach due to private property issues, but it can be done with some polite behavior and walking. 
Spring near Lapuan beach

  
 
 Lapuan Beach